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Adblue

38K views 44 replies 18 participants last post by  Tojo136 
#1 ·
Have any of us Dervites had to top up Adblue yet, or had any issues with Adblue warnings?
 
#9 ·
I've been doing this for the last 3 years on my A6 ultra before getting the Kodiaq.

I've been buying ad-blue in 15 litre bottles from the same seller on eBay for years, easy to do yourself and a lot cheaper then Audi or garage prices.

Just check the description number for conformity.
 
#11 ·
Basically lowers the amount of toxic particles from diesel exhaust gasses. Don't think petrol is 100% safe cause petrol engines produce a fair amount of carbon monoxide which is also toxic.
 
#12 ·
Gizmo68 said:
Find a petrol station that has adblue pumps (they will be by the HGV pumps) as it is FAR cheaper (69.9p per litre IIRC in Kent)
Oh! This is my first diesel car that's required adblue - I was fascinated as the dealer talked me through it. That's a really good steer for getting cheaper adblue. Thanks!
 
#13 ·
The Adblue tank holds 12 litres ( the dealer told me it was 3 litres ). I've done 1200 miles and the trip computer is giving a range of 5000, so 6000 sounds about right assuming the tank was full on delivery.

One word of warning if you have not used Adblue before, it's very corrosive so needs to be washed off paintwork as soon as possible. Also it's not blue it's clear, I know coach drivers who have kept some in an unmarked container, then another driver has topped up the cooling system with it resulting in a new engine. It's a good idea to keep a spare litre in the boot (in a bag with gloves and funnel) as if it runs out I think the car will go into 'limp home' mode, this is what happens with Hgv's.
 
#14 ·
Spongo said:
It's a good idea to keep a spare litre in the boot (in a bag with gloves and funnel) as if it runs out I think the car will go into 'limp home' mode, this is what happens with Hgv's.
You will get a 1,500 mile warning when you get low, so nobody should ever get caught out and run out.

Also if you do run out completely then the engine will refuse to start.
 
#15 ·
Isn't AdBlue just wee? Can't you just stick your own nozzle in the tank and fill up if you run out?
 
#18 ·
romanv said:
Gizmo68 said:
It is 'basically' pigs urine
So the answer is: yes?
Well no, its actually an aqueous urea solution made with 32.5% urea and 67.5% deionized water.
 
#19 ·
You also need to be careful which adblue you put in. We have a jag xe at work and someone put some cheap garage stuff in and the car didn't like it. Apparently there are subtle differences between brands and some manufacturers systems check
 
#20 ·
Drew said:
You also need to be careful which adblue you put in. We have a jag xe at work and someone put some cheap garage stuff in and the car didn't like it. Apparently there are subtle differences between brands and some manufacturers systems check
There are basically two methods used to manufacture AdBlue. The 'Hot-Melt' Virgin Urea production method is widely accepted across the industry as producing the highest purity grade of AdBlue. This is because it eliminates the risk of contamination during manufacture. The urea is in its 'virgin' liquid state when it is combined with the de-ionised water so there is no chance of contaminants being introduced during manufacture.

NEVER use AdBlue that is manufactured by dissolving solid urea. This method of manufacture is by the dissolution of solid urea in de-ionised water. Although this method may meet the ISO and DIN standards set by the VDA there is a strong chance that the solid urea could have contaminants present from the manufacturing process and also from bulk storage and handling in typical open warehouse environments.
 
#21 ·
Zach said:
Drew said:
You also need to be careful which adblue you put in. We have a jag xe at work and someone put some cheap garage stuff in and the car didn't like it. Apparently there are subtle differences between brands and some manufacturers systems check
There are basically two methods used to manufacture AdBlue. The 'Hot-Melt' Virgin Urea production method is widely accepted across the industry as producing the highest purity grade of AdBlue. This is because it eliminates the risk of contamination during manufacture. The urea is in its 'virgin' liquid state when it is combined with the de-ionised water so there is no chance of contaminants being introduced during manufacture.

NEVER use AdBlue that is manufactured by dissolving solid urea. This method of manufacture is by the dissolution of solid urea in de-ionised water. Although this method may meet the ISO and DIN standards set by the VDA there is a strong chance that the solid urea could have contaminants present from the manufacturing process and also from bulk storage and handling in typical open warehouse environments.
Skoda only specify ISO 22241 as a standard, no idea how that fits in with the two types. I gave also seen that it also freezes at -10°c which may not worry most people but it gets down to -22°c outside my house during the winter so I am unsure if that's a problem or not.

Also some people believe it's a fuel addative which is bit of a worry.
 
#25 ·
Zach said:
Dave, there's a bloody big difference between urea nitrate and the urea solution used in Adblue. What a ridiculous statement.
Agreed, a little knowledge is a dangerous thing. I may be wrong but we have gone off topic.
 
#26 ·
I can be ridiculous fairly easily. I see this as a good thing though. Zach that statement was not to be taken as seriously. But nevertheless I am still mystified by amble.
Am I correct Adblue is only for Diesel powered engines as indicated on Page 280 of the manual. And seems to inject automatically from the 12 litre tank that is refilled near the fuel filler???
 
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