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Hi all,

I ordered my Kodiaq before Christmas and have just been allocated build week 10, I.e. delivery early April.

I wanted to add some extra options, the colour maxi dot and also the remote child lock/rear sun blinds. When I asked my dealer I was told that if they did this it would reset my order and I would lose my build space. Is this true??
 

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I suggest you talk to you dealer URGENTLY.
First advised build date is not firm. Your dealer should advise you when it becomes firm.
I have been told that it MAY be possible to alter some details of your order before the build date is made firm. But there is a possibility it may cause a delay.
But I suggest that you talk to your dealer, as he should be able to give you up to date info..
Good luck.
 

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As I understand it, Skoda operate on a sort of 'package' build. They try to get as many cars wanting roughly the same options together and then build those in one run. For example. My SE L 1.4 DSG, has sunroof and front sensors and beige Alcantara, as ordered and was given a provisional build week of 9. They then cancelled it (very common-especially with brand new models) and 4 days later it came back as week 9 . With the unrequested addition of a spacesaver spare and a Canton sound system.
After a great deal of punting around we found this out...

*Free Canton sound system for Kodiaq retail customers during February.
Kodiaq retail purchase customers already in the order bank, or who place an order during February, will get a free new 'VIP' option pack for the SE, SE L and Edition trims that includes a premium Canton sound system.
The VIP pack also includes keyless entry and a temporary spacesaver spare wheel.

This is only for retail customers, not for PCP or lease cars.

Obviously to come back as 9 they had got enough cars together to create a build batch of similar vehicles. this give as build code of 10 See photograph below (red line for code red circle for INTENDED build week). Should anything untoward happen, such as shortage of outside supplied goods (sunroofs for example) occur they then have to alter the build week. Next step is a FIRM build week and the code alters.
I'm afraid I cannot remember all the codes but have a call through to my dealer and when I get them I will post them below the photograph.
they are roughly order received, assigned build week, confirmed build week, built, on train, at Emden docks, on boat, arrived at English port.
Tyneside, Grimsby or Sheerness, depending on where your dealer is. Finally, at dealer.
If you have not been shown the order form as below by your dealer you should ask him for a copy. My dealer simply copies and sends by email.
I hope all this helps.
I will update this with codes as soon as I have them.

 

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Clearly some dealers are more communicative and on the ball than others. I spent 90 minutes with my local dealer yesterday and most of that time it was like talking to a brick wall. I eventually got, reluctantly given, confirmation about the "VIP" Canton / spare wheel deal. When asking about a confirmation order like some of you guys have, then no way was that going to happen. At the eleventh hour, when I am sure he saw I was getting well irritated, I was shown (yes shown, not to be taken away) a print out - not a screen shot with some data on it. As far as I am concerned I pre-ordered and paid a significant deposit on 1st November. After a considerable lack of information from the dealer re firming up the spec I finally confirmed the options and was told the firm order was placed on 8th December, with a promise that this was one of the first orders. Well the piece of paper that was wafted in front of me told me something different (It is not only the US President who provides Alternative Facts) and I find the order was actually put into the system on 12th December and was not accepted until 11 January. Order number 26700160, well behind Colin's. The order status is defined as "A - Assigned", whatever that means. The list of options did not include the content of the "VIP" pack. I have given them till Thursday to sort everything out, but in reality it will be Saturday after I see a real vehicle in the metal. These vehicles doing the rounds are apparently built to Finnish spec and in Finland they have four models in the range like here in the UK, and I am hoping that I will see the "Exclusive" model which I expect to be the closest to the "Edition".
Currently doing a crash course in Finnish so I can compare the specs!
 

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Currently doing a crash course in Finnish so I can compare the specs!

Good luck with that! :lol:
Since I am 10 days away from my VIP day..........
Can you do me a favour (if possible) Can you check if the 12V socket is ignition controlled?
It infuriates me as a dash-cam user that Skodas always seem to have the 12v socket permanently live. 'cos I keep forgetting to pull the camera plug out!! I end up with 24hours of in the dark video of my 'Snowball bush' at the end of my drive! :lol:
If it is permanently live I want to be able to discuss with the dealer at the VIP meeting any chance of rewiring the front socket. (I live 20 miles from my dealer so I don't go over that often.)
Thanks.
Obviously all other comments re your VIP day would be of interest to 'our readers'.

Sounds as though you dealer needs a kick up the proverbial. Any other dealers near you?
The delay between you ordering it and the factory accepting the order may be down to the factory. It took a while for my dealer to get the order accepted by the factory and he and I have a brilliant relationship so I am quite happy that the delay was not his fault.
enjoy your VIP evening.
 

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I will ask, but as an older person, memory sometimes fails, and as I say I gather there will be nobody around other than a driver and a clueless salesperson! But I will fiddle, if allowed.
I like the live 12v because on my longer journeys I take a cool box and it is good to know it continues to operate during rest breaks etc.
I wonder whether it would be an easier job to get your dash cam wired directly to the fuse box, so it would be all new wiring, rather than tampering with the main loom and so perhaps invalidating the warranty. It would certainly be relatively easy in the Yeti (fuses behind the rhs of steering wheel)
 

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Thanks.
You can't be as old as I am! :lol: I bet you don't have to renew your driving licence every three years!!
My dealer told me that Skoda insist on a mechanic being there?
I agree with the rear 12v point being constantly live for exactly the reason you state. But the front one would not have a cool box plugged in often?
Yes I had thought of hard wiring it. But auto electrics terrify me! Give me a spanner and I'm fine. I would have to ask the dealer to do that otherwise I might end up with a £30k bonfire! :eek:
p.s Being a Yeti owner (I assume) are you on the
http://www.yetiownersclub.co.uk/forum/ ?
I am on my 3rd Yeti. Brilliant car, but I need a bigger boot.
 

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Status codes now in thread entitled Status/build. That will explain all.
 

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Driving licence? What's that?
Yes, one Yeti since 2011and very satisfied. It was supposed to see me out! However I feel the caravan can sometimes take control although in theory it shouldn't, so something more substantial is required.
The Kodiaq will, I hope, allow easier manoeuvring with its various interesting camera arrangements, trailer assist etc.
I've spent a lot of time trying to understand what I am ordering. Unfortunately dealer seems ineffective and I have relied on this forum and (am I allowed to say?) Briskoda.
Saturday will be make or break.
 

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Re-new every 3 years?! I had to pass a theory test to get my license........

I haven't seen any paperwork or screen shots with regards to my order. My dealer has strongly implied I will get my car in early April. My scout is meant to be returned late March as the company contract ends then, but we have been able to extend the contract by 3 months to allow for the Kodiaq to arrive. I actually wanted to wait for a sport line or scout spec kodiaq but we couldn't wait that long.

I have ordered the 2.0 Diesel 4x4 manual SE L model, with the rear tables for the kids (that I don't even want now!). I should have added more options when I ordered the car, but the dealers weren't exactly familiar with the spec when I placed the order. It would seem I am too late to add options as it will mean losing my build slot. As my car is contract hire I am not entitled to the canton upgrade either! :cry:
 

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For me it was hard to order something that I haven't seen before. Fortunately I've touched Kodiaq at the beginning of January and I've driven it a week ago. Now I know I made a great decision.
 

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"I have relied on this forum and (am I allowed to say?) Briskoda."

NOT "The OTHER place"
( if you belong to Yeti forum, you must know what is thought of 'that place'! :lol:
 

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Colin Lambert said:
Can you do me a favour (if possible) Can you check if the 12V socket is ignition controlled?
It infuriates me as a dash-cam user that Skodas always seem to have the 12v socket permanently live. 'cos I keep forgetting to pull the camera plug out!! I end up with 24hours of in the dark video of my 'Snowball bush' at the end of my drive! :lol:
If it is permanently live I want to be able to discuss with the dealer at the VIP meeting any chance of rewiring the front socket. (I live 20 miles from my dealer so I don't go over that often.)
If it's wired like an Octavia / Golf then simply removing the fuse and inserting as shown below will change them from permanent 12v to switched 12v... HOWEVER on the Superb this is NOT possible as there is no terminal for switched 12v

This fuse is already in the switched 12v position:


Personally I always prefer to hard wire a separate 12v feed for the dashcam, this way there are no unsightly wires anywhere, I did my MKII Superb and Yeti like this (fuse tap to 12v socket):


On the new Superb I did away with the socket completely and wired the cam directly to the fuse tap



If you are running a rear dashcam then the rear wiper motor is an ideal switched 12v power source.

KodiaqGirl said:
I wonder whether it would be an easier job to get your dash cam wired directly to the fuse box, so it would be all new wiring, rather than tampering with the main loom and so perhaps invalidating the warranty. It would certainly be relatively easy in the Yeti (fuses behind the rhs of steering wheel)
I dare say the fuses will now be behind the glovebox as they are on the other newer models, it's not quite as easy to access them but not particularly hard.
I had to run a new loom to the rear of my Superb as I do not have the rear wiper, again not hard, but it is a bit time consuming to make it a neat (totally invisible) job.

BTW nice to meet you on Friday KodiaqGirl
 
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